Lumber Guide
Definitions, figure, drying, finishing—and practical examples. Jump to what you need ⟶
Glossary
Board Foot (bdft)
A volume unit: 1 bdft = 1″ × 12″ × 12″.
bdft = thickness(in) × avg width(in) × length(in) ÷ 144bdft = thickness(in) × avg width(in) × length(ft) ÷ 12
Example 1 (board): 8/4 (2″) × 10″ × 7′ → 2 × 10 × 7 ÷ 12 = 11.7 bdft.
Example 2 (slab): 2.5″ × 28″ × 8′ → 2.5 × 28 × 8 ÷ 12 = 46.7 bdft.
Example 2 (slab): 2.5″ × 28″ × 8′ → 2.5 × 28 × 8 ÷ 12 = 46.7 bdft.
Quarter system (nominal vs. actual)
Rough thickness is stated in quarters (4/4 ≈ 1″, 8/4 ≈ 2″, etc.). After flattening/planing, the dressed thickness is less.
| Nominal | Rough (≈) | Typical dressed target* |
|---|---|---|
| 4/4 | 1.00″ | ¾″ (≈0.75–0.80″) |
| 5/4 | 1.25″ | 1.00″ (≈0.95–1.05″) |
| 6/4 | 1.50″ | 1¼″ (≈1.20–1.30″) |
| 8/4 | 2.00″ | 1¾″ (≈1.70–1.80″) |
| 10/4 | 2.50″ | 2¼″ (≈2.20–2.30″) |
| 12/4 | 3.00″ | 2¾″ (≈2.70–2.80″) |
*Targets vary by project and how much flattening the board needs.
Sawing styles & ring orientation
Ring orientation is the angle between annual growth rings and the board’s face:
- Plainsawn (0–30°): rings mostly parallel to the face—yields arching “cathedral” grain.
- Riftsawn (~30–60°): straight, even grain; great leg stock.
- Quartersawn (60–90°): stable; in white oak it reveals striking ray fleck.
Think Mission/Stickley furniture—QSWO shows ray fleck beautifully.
Medullary rays
Ribbon-like cells that run pith→bark. Quartersawing exposes them as ray fleck (white oak, sycamore, lacewood).
Heartwood vs. Sapwood
Sapwood is the living, outer band that moves water and dissolved nutrients
(xylem) from roots to crown; it’s usually lighter in color and can be a bit softer.
Heartwood is the older, inner core where cells have died and become structural;
extractives often darken it and improve decay resistance (e.g., walnut’s chocolate heartwood).
Live edge vs. Dimensional
Live edge keeps the log’s natural contour. Bark retention depends on species and when the tree was felled (dormant-season trees
often hold bark better); long-term furniture rarely keeps bark—most folks remove bark and clean the cambium.
Dimensional example: a “2×10” softwood is typically ~1.5″ × 9.25″ after milling;
hardwood dimensional can be milled to whatever exact size your project needs.
Boule
From the French for “ball”: a log sawn straight through and kept in order. Imagine the log deconstructed into boards—then stacked
back in sequence. Buying from a boule gives matched color, grain, and widths.
Chatoyance
The cat’s-eye shimmer as light moves across figured grain; strong in curly/tiger maple and sometimes other species.
Figure types
Curly / Tiger
Wavy, chatoyant grain from undulating growth (often stress-related). Common in maple, but can also occur in
walnut, cherry, white oak, and others. Plane with sharp irons or skew; finishes pop the figure.
Quilt
Pillowy 3-D undulations—most associated with big-leaf maple; extremely chatoyant.
Birdseye
Tiny “eyes,” classic in hard maple. Sharp tooling/abrasives help avoid tear-out.
Burl
Swirling figure from bud clusters; may include voids/punky areas—stabilize where needed.
Crotch
Feathery “flame” where a trunk branches—spectacular in walnut; flatten before final milling.
Ray fleck / lace
Medullary rays exposed on quartersawn faces—signature in white oak; also sycamore and lacewood.
Spalted
Dark zone lines from early fungal activity. We only offer sound, workable stock.
When the wood is sound and properly finished, spalted pieces are generally considered
as safe to use as the base species. For items that touch food—spalted or not—we favor
food-safe oils/waxes (“board butter”) over film builds; always wear a mask and
collect dust when sanding spalted wood.
Ambrosia
Mineral streaks with small pinhole galleries from ambrosia beetles—common in maple; mostly cosmetic.
Wormy
General term for scattered insect galleries/holes (e.g., wormy chestnut/oak). Often filled for smooth finishes.
Rustic
Checks, bug tracks, bark inclusions, end splits, and small voids—character that may need stabilization.
Live edge alone ≠ rustic.
Drying & Moisture Content (MC)
Why MC matters
Wood moves with moisture. For interior furniture we target ~6–8%; shops often see 8–12%.
Exterior designs allow movement and often use AD material. Always acclimate stock before final milling.
Air-dried (AD) vs. Kiln-dried (KD)
AD: gentler, rich color; typical VA equilibrium ~12–20% by season.
KD: controlled schedule to ~6–8% for interiors; faster turnaround, tighter joins. We often AD to equalize, then KD to spec.
KD: controlled schedule to ~6–8% for interiors; faster turnaround, tighter joins. We often AD to equalize, then KD to spec.
Practical notes
Flatten before thicknessing; skip-plane and watch for movement; glue-ups like matched MC.
We publish method + MC and can meter any board on request.
Finishing options
Board butters (oils & waxes)
Food-contact friendly blends, shop-made or store-bought, for cutting boards, butcher blocks, and spoons.
Think beeswax + mineral/seed/citrus oils. Wipe on, let soak, wipe off. Refresh
as needed (weekly → monthly, depending on use). Easy to repair—just clean and re-oil.
Hardwax oils (2C)
Examples: Rubio Monocoat Oil Plus 2C, Natura OneCoat 2C, Osmo Polyx-Oil 2K.
Two-part systems (oil + hardener) that penetrate and cure in the wood—not a thick film. Easy to apply (wipe/spread thin with a white pad, work in, remove all excess), typically 1–2 coats, with good coverage (≈300–500 sq ft/L). Leaves a low-build, natural “in-the-wood” feel with a pleasant hand; spot-repairable.
Not recommended for cutting surfaces—use board butter there.
Two-part systems (oil + hardener) that penetrate and cure in the wood—not a thick film. Easy to apply (wipe/spread thin with a white pad, work in, remove all excess), typically 1–2 coats, with good coverage (≈300–500 sq ft/L). Leaves a low-build, natural “in-the-wood” feel with a pleasant hand; spot-repairable.
Not recommended for cutting surfaces—use board butter there.
Oil & oil-wax blends (1C)
Examples: Odie’s Oil, General Finishes Hardwax Oil.
Single-component, high-solids blends that penetrate and leave a low-build, natural sheen. Apply whisper-thin, work in with a white pad, and buff off completely; allow generous cure time per maker guidance. Great when you want wood to feel like wood and value easy spot repairs.
Not recommended for cutting surfaces—use board butter there.
Single-component, high-solids blends that penetrate and leave a low-build, natural sheen. Apply whisper-thin, work in with a white pad, and buff off completely; allow generous cure time per maker guidance. Great when you want wood to feel like wood and value easy spot repairs.
Not recommended for cutting surfaces—use board butter there.
Oils (tung, Danish, Waterlox)
Penetrating oils and oil/varnish blends for a classic hand-rubbed look when
you want wood to feel like wood. Pure or polymerized tung oil (multiple thin coats,
longer cure) warms tone and pops figure. Danish oil and Waterlox (tung-oil-based)
add a touch more build and protection while keeping a natural sheen. Great on furniture;
periodic maintenance is easy. Less water/chemical/heat resistance than thick film finishes.
Not recommended for cutting surfaces—use board butter.
Not recommended for cutting surfaces—use board butter.
Film finishes (poly, varnish, shellac, lacquer)
Build a protective film on the surface for maximum abrasion and spill resistance.
Application styles: wipe-on (thinned; many thin coats), brush (full-strength; fewer coats),
or spray (fast, even build). Typical schedule: 3–5+ coats, light scuff sand
(220–320) between coats, optional rub-out after cure for sheen/flatness.
Pros: top durability, water/chemical resistance. Cons: more plasticky look/feel,
repairs often mean recoating a whole section.
Not recommended for cutting surfaces.
Not recommended for cutting surfaces.
Note: Many common finishes are considered food-safe once fully cured. For active cutting surfaces, we stick with oil/wax (“board butter”) for easy care and renewal.
Explore species
American Sycamore
0 slabs availableScientific namePlatanus occidentalis
Janka hardness770 lbf
Typical density34 lb/ft³
Porositydiffuse-porous; interlocked
Subtle lace when quartered. When prominent lace is present also known as "American Lacewood"
Common uses: casework, interiors
Black Cherry
2 slabs availableScientific namePrunus serotina
Janka hardness950 lbf
Typical density35 lb/ft³
Porositysemi-ring-porous; fine texture
Ages to a rich amber.
Common uses: furniture, cabinetry
Black Walnut
4 slabs availableScientific nameJuglans nigra
Janka hardness1010 lbf
Typical density38 lb/ft³
Porositysemi-ring-porous
Dark brown heartwood; machines well.
Common uses: furniture, slabs, gunstocks
Eastern Red Cedar
0 slabs availableScientific nameJuniperus virginiana
Janka hardness900 lbf
Typical density31 lb/ft³
Porositysoftwood; aromatic
Vivid heart/sap contrast. Excellent rot resistance. Good for outdoor projects.
Common uses: closets, chests, slabs
Holly
1 slab availableScientific nameIlex opaca
Janka hardness1020 lbf
Typical density36 lb/ft³
Porositydiffuse-porous; very fine, even texture
Very pale; excellent for inlay and accents.
Common uses: inlay, accents, small decorative
Red Maple (Soft Maple)
0 slabs availableScientific nameAcer rubrum
Janka hardness950 lbf
Typical density38 lb/ft³
Porositydiffuse-porous
Often curly/birdseye in places.
Common uses: furniture, turning
Silver Maple
0 slabs availableScientific nameAcer saccharinum
Janka hardness700 lbf
Typical density33 lb/ft³
Porositydiffuse-porous
Light, softer maple.
Common uses: furniture, millwork
Southern Red Oak
0 slabs availableScientific nameQuercus falcata
Janka hardness1290 lbf
Typical density43 lb/ft³
Porosityring-porous; open pores
Slightly coarser texture than northern red.
Common uses: furniture, flooring
White Ash
2 slabs availableScientific nameFraxinus americana
Janka hardness1320 lbf
Typical density42 lb/ft³
Porosityring-porous; open pores
Elastic and strong.
Common uses: tool handles, bats, furniture
White Oak
1 slab availableScientific nameQuercus alba
Janka hardness1360 lbf
Typical density47 lb/ft³
Porosityring-porous; tyloses; very durable
Classic American hardwood; closed pores glue more slowly.
Common uses: furniture, flooring, barrel staves